Improving performance involves unlearning limiting behaviors as much as learning new ones. If you just pile something new onto a shaky foundation then the new skill won’t be learned well. Identifying limiting behaviors is helpful but more important is identifying the foundational skill to replace the limiting one.

Let’s say you have a limiting habit of yelling “take” when the climbing becomes uncomfortable. You want to hang on the rope and rest to escape the stress of the difficult climbing. You’ve identified the limiting habit: yelling “take.”

To begin the unlearning process you need to be present in that uncomfortable situation and not yell “take.” You don’t have to climb higher; just be there in the stress without escaping it. Think about what foundational skill is needed to replace this habit. For challenging climbing where you want to redpoint the climb, (climbing bottom to top without hanging on the rope) you need to develop the skill of staying committed. By practicing staying committed the limiting habit of yelling “take” will fall away.

But we need to dig a little deeper. Why would you yell “take” when the climbing is challenging? One reason is fear of falling. I covered how to deal with this fear in the previous issue. Another reason is fear of exerting effort. Strange as it may seem, we are afraid of exerting effort because it is uncomfortable. How do you practice unlearning and hone better foundational skills? You can train yourself by finding little ways to engage the stressful climbing. Many times you may think you need to climb to the top of the route. But that shouldn’t be the goal when practicing this skill.

Engaging the stressful climbing is the goal even if that engagement results in only one move. That one move, where you push yourself through the doubt, allows you to learn. You learn that you can continue even when you are pumped and your mind doesn’t think you can. This is a powerful realization. Having experiences where you push beyond the doubt, even only one move, gives you tangible evidence that you can continue climbing when stressed.
This skill along with practicing falling will build a solid foundation for your commitment. With less distracting fear, you’ll have more attention to focus forward on climbing, even if climbing ends up being only a move or two. Ultimately those moves will accumulate to carry you to the top of your goals.

First, identify limiting behaviors you may have when climbing. What do you do that shuts you down? What are you focusing attention on when you stop climbing and begin doubting?
1. Do you say “take” when your goal was to red point the route?
2. Do your legs begin to shake when you get stressed?
3. Do you over-grip and waste energy?

Second, identify what you will practice and learn so you can unlearn the limiting behavior.
1. Instead of saying “take,” force yourself to make one more move even if you end up stepping back down to your previous stance.
2. If your legs begin to shake then lower your heels and stay in the stress.
3. If you over-grip then loosen your grip and stay in the stress.

Practicing these new behaviors while in the stress will build a more stable foundation.

Arno is the author of The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers. He’s currently working on a new book that will cover a practical application of the warrior’s way material.
www.warriorsway.com